Frequently Asked Questions
The Lawn Ranger applies 8 treatments per year, and spot treats any areas of concern in the other 3 months which are our inspection months.
A: We will apply a granular fertilizer 2 times per year, one in March and one in September. We will apply 3 applications of Herbicide (which is for the weed control) a pre-emergent in January and a post emergent in April and a post and pre-emergent in October. We will put 4 applications of Insecticide down in May, June, July, and August.
A: St. Johns County has recently released a water restriction rule which is 2 times per week (*think two*) during Daylight Savings Time to October and one day per week during Eastern Standard Time. During the growing season (May-Oct) it is best to water St. Augustine grass 2 times per week. (By means of irrigation or rain). From Nov-Apr you can water. only 1 time per week. Odd number addresses, water on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Even number addresses, water on Thursdays and Sundays. Non-residential properties, Tuesdays and Fridays. With the exception of new sod and plants and freshly fertilized lawns you can water at any time of day or any day within 24 hours of application.
A: We recommend watering 45-60 minutes for the rotating irrigation heads and about 20 minutes for the stationary irrigation heads. You want to have about 3/4 of an inch of water on the lawn.
A: St. Johns County prohibits watering between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm. The best time of the day to water is early morning before 10:00 am. If you water in the early afternoon the water evaporates too quickly. If possible, do not water after 4:00 pm or before 4:00 am (fungus disease activity is encouraged in dark and wet conditions.) For complete irrigation rules you can visit SJRWMD website at www.sjrwmd.com/irrigationrule.
A: By placing a container with straight sides (tuna or cat food cans) half way between the sprinkler and the farthest point of the spray. They should be filled at least 3/4 full.
A: Yes. It is possible: Deep established root systems could be destroyed by too frequent or over abundance of water. Proper watering procedures prevent any danger.
A: Aeration, as recommended by your technician, is a machine process, which is driven over your lawn removing cores of soil (approximately quarter size) and approximately 2" to 3" deep to allow oxygen, water and nutrients to penetrate more efficiently into the root zone.
This is commonly recommended in areas of compact soil (small areas or entire lawns in some cases) where new construction has occurred or high foot traffic occurs. When the thatch layer is more than 1/2 inch thick. Heavy equipment use during home construction or areas used by dogs to move about the yard on a routine basis, and play areas for kids are common situations where aeration may be recommended. Remember, we offer this as an aid to your lawn not a cure.
Your results may vary depending on your problem, turf condition, sunlight, and soil composition. If you have an area that needs to be aerated, it typically will need to be done annually, especially if the cause of the condition is not alleviated. Cost is based on square footage.
A: No. Diseases are usually activated by weather conditions and can't be controlled until they appear. Watering at the proper time of the day and mowing with a sharp blade can help prevent the occurrence of disease.
A: Even after disease controls are applied, a disease can be persistent. This is especially true if the weather conditions that began the problem linger. Several reapplications may be required.
A: Dollar weed in particular, weeds in general, do not seem concerned about how long a lawn has been under good care. Airborne seed and seed which have been in the soil for years will seek the opportunity to grow in any area of weakness in turf density. Weather extremes usually create these kinds of weak areas, even in the best lawns.
A: Since most soils are abundant with the seeds of annual weeds, they will germinate when the conditions are favorable. Ground temperatures of 75 to 80 degrees, thin turf areas, water runoff areas, and disturbed pre-emergent barriers are favorable conditions.
A: The rapid lateral growth of the leaves on each mature plant makes it appear that the plants are multiplying. This false appearance usually occurs in August.
A: Thick turf and proper applications of an effective granular pre-emergent will discourage annual grasses, such as crabgrass.
Many times, there are a wide variety of weed species in each lawn. Each one may have varying reaction times to the weed control. Some more succulent, faster growing weeds like chickweed and cudweed, may show decline within a few days while more woody, slower growing species, may take up to three weeks.
A: No. A 100 % weed free lawn in Florida is not possible. Florida is a continuous growth state and weeds are always germinating. We treat new weeds each visit and work towards getting your lawn as thick as possible, to minimize any weed pressure.
A: The standard re-entry time is 2 hours. This is the amount of time that is recommended on the product label that allows for proper drying time and adequate time for the product to soak into the plant. This holds true for both liquid and granular applications.
A: At Lawn Ranger we like to provide the best service possible. Our trained technicians are always aware of the weather conditions and use their best judgment when applying your treatments. In general, all technicians will stop applying treatments 2 hours prior to a heavy rainfall to ensure effective results. This holds true for applications that may be affected by the rain. Keep in mind, some applications benefit from the rainfall. If you have any questions or concerns whether your treatment will be affected, please feel free to call our office.
A. We granular fertilize shrubs in late February. We spray an insecticide on shrubs in May, June and August.
A: St. Augustine grass 3-4 inches, Bermuda grass 3/4 to 1 & 1/2 inches, and Bahia grass 3-4 inches